“Every single girl should embrace their inner freaky freak/Don’t be scared, don’t be shy/Yes you gotta let it breathe.”

Honestly, I was blown away the first time I heard it…and not only by the song! The images from the video are so impressive, I asked my dear friend Alvaro, the genius illustrator, to create a sketch drawn from the look of the video. Meanwhile, I recently caught up with Estelle, herself, to chat about everything from her move to New York City to the inspiration behind her hot new look and sound:

IMAN: When you moved to New York in 2007, did it inspire the sound of your new music?

ESTELLE: A little bit. I’m really more of a world music artist…I pick up a little bit of everything because I travel everywhere. My sound is always inspired by the music I listen to at whatever stage I’m at.

IMAN: Everybody sees New York in their own way. How would you describe Estelle’s New York?

ESTELLE: Just like London, except twenty-four hours!  Also, it really is like Jay Z and Alicia’s song “Empire State of Mind.” You can do exactly what you want to do here. CONTINUED AT ESSENCE.COM

Stephen Burrows, Tracy Reese and B. Michael have defined our times and weathered the storm that is the fashion industry (these days, everyone is a critic, aren’t they?) Here, I chatted with all three of these fashion visionaries.

STEPHEN BURROWS
When I arrived in New York in 1975, there were few African American designers and certainly none who had achieved any kind of stature–with, of course, the exception being Stephen Burrows!

TRACY REESE
Tracy Reese ranks as one of the fashion industry’s most successful African-American women whose realm is not only relegated to the runway.  In a business where few designer labels seem to make it past their fifth anniversary, Reese has two clothing lines, Tracy Reese and Plenty.

B. MICHAEL
This fantastic designer launched his first couture collection in 1999 and, similar to his approach to millinery, his design exudes a glamourous, clean aesthetic.  He heightens his couture vision by infusing emotions such as joy, adding a discern-able feeling and festive mood to his creations.

CONTINUED AT ESSENCE.COM

IMAN: Do clothes determine the hair, or vice versa?
MAISHA OLIVER: Clothes always determine what the overall look is going to be. Hair and make-up have to compliment the clothes. If the look is futuristic then you have to be able to carry out a futuristic look.

IMAN: What’s was your inspiration for Keri’s Grammy’s hairstyle?
MAISHA OLIVER: I wanted to create a style that was elegant but still had that Keri flare. I also wanted to make sure that she was recognizable on the red carpet. Plus, she’s wearing her hair short these days, so I wanted to add some glamour to her cut.

Keri Hilson with Maisha Oliver

Next, I caught up with her makeup artist, Ashunta Sheriff.  She told me that, for her, the Grammys represent the creme de la creme of musicians, so being quirky, funky, edgy, or just straight glam are all acceptable. CONTINUED AT ESSENCE.COM

If you didn’t know, let me confide in you that I love wearing wigs. Five years ago, I decided I’d had enough of hair extensions, and wanted to start taking care of my “real” hair.  I know that many of us who’ve been wearing extensions for a long time can start to think that it is our hair… but, girl, let’s face it is not! I should know–I almost feel that I was part of the “invention” of hair extensions.  Let me clarify it … some twenty years ago I was traveling to Paris for the couture shows, and my hair stylist Ellin Lavar decided to experiment this fascinating technique on my hair.  Voila: in a mere ten hours I was transformed. CONTINUED AT ESSENCE.COM

To me, a “fresh start” is all about turning your attention to your own health and happiness. I start my fresh start right during the Christmas holiday, since I’m usually being pampered in some fab getaway, with no mommy duties (like homework, after school activities, play dates etc…), or homemaker duties. I know you’re thinking “homemaker duties? Are we talking about Iman?” CONTINUED AT ESSENCE.COM

SAM FINE

1. Who are your clients?
I’ve worked with celebrities such as Vanessa Williams, Patti LaBelle, Mary J. Blige, Queen Latifah, Mo’Nique and supermodels Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Chanel Iman… and one of my personal favorites, Iman!

2. What are your 3 all time hall of fame/fave products?
Yves St. Laurent Semi-loose Powder Natural Radiance – Fellow makeup artist Fran Cooper turned me onto this incredibly silky loose powder and I’ve been using it my entire career! It never settles in fine lines or looks heavy!

IMAN Cosmetics Sheer Finish Bronzing Powder in Afterglow - Bronzer and blush all in one? Who could ask for more!

Stila Eyeshadow in Twig – A rich brown shadow with flecks of gold that looks great on everyone from fair to deep complexions.

3. What are your mistake proof tips for holiday festive makeup?
Glitter liquid liner makes eyes sparkle and is one of the easiest products to use! Simply apply a bit to the inner corner of the eye (nearest the nose) to add a touch of holiday sparkle or layer over a dark smoky eye for all out glamour!  My fave is IMAN Luxury Liquid Eyeliner.

Wearing lipstick in rich shades ranging from red to bordeaux look amazing when paired with a clean eye and a defined brow… very old Hollywood!

4. What are your quick makeup fixes that all women need to know?
Apply lip liner in a coordinating shade over the entire mouth before applying lipstick. Not only will this keep lipstick from bleeding, it will last longer while you dance the night away!

Don’t have room for a compact? Simply pack a few blotting tissues in your purse to absorb oil throughout the evening.

If you feel you’ve applied too much foundation, simply take a two-ply tissue, separate, and blot. Not only does this absorb excess foundation, it also allows the skin to show through for a more natural looking, flawless complexion.

5. Are you working anything new that we should know about?
I recently released my first instructional makeup DVD, Fine: The Basics of Beauty available now on Amazon.com! This step-by-step tutorial features three individual makeovers and addresses a myriad of beauty challenges! Check it out!

ASHUNTA

1. Who are your clients?
Some of my clients are Alicia Keys, Keri Hilson, Sharon Stone, Mary J. Blige and Rihanna.

2. What are your 3 all time hall of fame/fave products?
My three all time favorite products are Laura Mercier Perfect Primer, Mary Kay TimeWise Targeted Eye Revitalizer and IMAN Cosmetics Creme To Powder Foundation.

3. What are your mistake proof tips for holiday festive makeup?
Play up lips and try a bold brick red, or deep wine. If you are not used to these colors make sure to use a warm brown lip liner line and fill in the lips then apply lip color. This always works well when wearing bolder colors is new to you because the warm brown lip liner tones down the brightness of red to create a more sultry color. This is a great tip to ease you into the color. For lighter complexions I suggest doing the same with a nude lip liner.

Also for holiday time using a fun eye liner like emerald, blue, or purple only on the lash line with 2 or 3 coats of Mascara is a great way to try a new look. My favorite eye liners are Makeup Forever Aqua Colors because they’re water proof and come in amazing shades. I love Dior Iconic Mascara to achieve full long lashes. When applying mascara wiggle the wand in a fast motion from side to side almost like teasing hair carefully. This insures that every lash is coated evenly.

4. What are your quick makeup fixes that all women need to know?
I always keep a Ziploc baggie with Q-tips inside with eye makeup remover. I let it marinate over night so the makeup remover is really soaked up by the Q-tips. This is great for runny eye makeup or makeup mishap quick fixes on the go – or if you want to change eye makeup from day to night you can easily remove only eye shadow so you can build up eyes or change without the heaviness layering makeup sometimes does.

A lot of women are always surprised when they see that I work on eyes first. It is a great tip because when you focus all the attention on the eyes then you can just clean up any fallen shadow or mascara. It’s easy to get a flawless finish with your foundation afterwards.

I am always asked how I get Alicia’s skin to glow. I always buy empty plastic jar containers from Ricky’s or Alcone – both fabulous stores for beauty junkies like me. I am a firm believe of removing products from their packaging to mix and create my own. I love being creative with makeup because it’s like painting so it should be fun. I actually learned this from two people I greatly look up to in beauty; Iman and Pat McGrath. I remember when I became a makeup artist I read Iman’s book, “The Beauty of Color: The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin of Color,” and she said she was always mixing things because brands didn’t make colors for her skin-tone. Pat is constantly mixing products to make the perfect shade so it became a trick of mine and it works. One of my biggest tricks to glowing skin is I take Tinted Moisturizer from Mary Kay, 24 Karat Gold Shimmer powder from Jane Iredale and Cover Girl Queen Collection Natural Hue Mineral Bronzer and mix it together to make a perfect flawless base that covers with glow.

5. Are you working anything new that we should know about?
Yes, I am working on a TV show, a book about green beauty, a blog, and a green product line. Plus always busy with my various clients and their projects. It is going to be a busy year and I feel very blessed.

BEAU NELSON

1. Who are your clients?
I have worked with Taylor Momsen, Lindsay Price, Mary J Blige, Lucy Liu, Iman, Blake Lively, Amanda Bynes, Mariah Carey, Kristen Stewart, Zoe Kravitz, Becki Newton, Brooke Shields, and Sienna Miller amongst others.

2. What are your 3 all time hall of fame/fave products?
Yves Saint Laurent Faux Cils Mascara makes lashes thick and dark without clumping. A real classic.

Shu Uemura and IMAN Cosmetics Stick foundations; between these two brands I have any skin tone I would ever need, and they both offer incredibly adjustable coverage, from the sheerest wash of color all the way up to full coverage, but have a satiny finish that never looks like MAKEUP.

Beauté Cosmetics Liqui-Gel Stain for Cheeks and Lips; I designed these as pure pigments suspended in a liquidy-gel base so they are bendable and super long lasting and look great on all skin tones.

3. What are your mistake proof tips for holiday festive makeup?
For daytime activities I think a little extra blush in a muted berry tone is a really pretty way to go, it makes you look like you have been out in the snow for a bit. And for evening a smoky dramatic eye looks amazing with a hint of silver or gold blended over the inner eye corner to light up the look.

4. What are your quick makeup fixes that all women need to know?
Brushes are your best friend! They make applying professional looking makeup a breeze, so make sure you invest in a nice set. That being said, sometimes nothing works better than your fingers, especially with emollient products like concealer and crème blush.

When using concealer under the eye, use your finger in a tapping motion rather than a rubbing one to blend the pigment under the eye, that way you will get the fullest coverage without it looking heavy. Use a small fluffy clean shadow brush to lightly dust loose powder under the eye after applying concealer to set it. This will control the amount of powder you are using making sure it doesn’t look dry or cakey.

For perfect red lips (or any other dark color) I apply a pencil in a lipstick matching shade and fill in the entire lip, I then use a clean lip brush to soften the pencil line very slightly. I use the same brush to apply a matching lip color all over the lip. Sometimes I refine the line further by using a straight edged flat liner brush dipped in makeup remover along the outside of the lip to define the shape even further.

5. Are you working anything new that we should know about?
It’s my goal in 2010 to expand the distribution of my brand Beauté Cosmetics to more locations in the US, so look out for us! Beyond that I’m continuing my work with my amazing clients and will hopefully have even more incredible ladies to work with soon.

I am very proud to call her a friend and this month she has several projects that I would like to pass on to you… one being her CD “The Element of Freedom” and the other being this jewelry collection “The Barber’s Daughter.”  The beautiful jewelry is engraved with poetry, prose and prayer and is gorgeous as well as inspiring.  It is designed by Gisele Theriault.

Alicia says, “I love Gisele’s work. I feel like I’m wearing art. I love how each piece is so individual, beautiful, handcrafted and one of a kind. But, by far my favorite part is the words that are written. They remind me of the things I want to hold onto every day. It feels, in a way, like a shield.”

And true to Alicia’s commitment, this year she has collaborated with her designer Gisele and created a special necklace for the Black Ball Charity event in New York; it was auctioned off raising $25,000 for Keep a Child Alive which helped the evening raise $2.4 million.

I sat down with Alicia and Gisele and asked them to enlighten us about this new venture.

1. How did you two meet?
Gisele:  “Alicia and I met through a friend, Dave Watson, Alicia’s sax player for her world tour 2008 when they came to Toronto.  Ashunta (Alicia’s make-up artist) asked Dave if I could bring my jewelry line to the hotel. She and I had a crazy, strong connection and she thought Alicia would appreciate the work and arranged for a meet at the next day’s concert.” 

2. Alicia, what made you decide this was to be your first non music venture?
I love these pieces on a very deep level. I love the way they are so individual and created with so much divine energy put into them. They are beautiful and speak to the song writer in me by having such meaningful words engraved on them. I believe the world is looking for meaning everywhere they can, and they absolutely can in these barbers daughters pieces!

3. Gisele…. I believe everything happens for a reason….the birth of your son and the death of your father share same day and now this wonderful project?
This line of inscribing words in jewelry to remind us where beauty really lives and how rich we are if we’d open our eyes is the result of persistent dreams.  A dream that was waking up with a voice in my head that was telling me that if I want to reach more people through the healing arts, I should go back to creating jewelry that I knew so well and start engraving poetry, prose and prayer and help people ground into their deeper self through the tough times.  I neglected this dream, sure that I was eating too late at night, until I started waking up in a sweat.  When I gave in and pursued the idea, of course answers came almost as fast as the questions were formulated.

After 1 1/2 years of it and a line gaining momentum, Alicia and I met. Within our communications I offered to create a piece for the Black Ball 2008.  While I was engraving late one night, exhausted, realizing that I’ve grown to hire 2 more people and went from working 12 hr days to 18 hour days, I did the simple math and threw the question up to the Universe/guardians/.. “If I am supposed to reach more people with this work, how? If I hire one more person, I think I’ll be dead.”  Two days later, the day after the Black Ball necklace we created together sold for 25K, we had lunch and Alicia said, “I sooo believe in this work and want to partner with you and help you take it to a global reach.”

Direct answer to my question! Coincidence?

4. Alicia, why Keep a Child Alive… share why this particular organization moved you to action?
Keep a Child Alive speaks to me because I directly saw the effect of the AIDS pandemic in Africa when I went and I believe so much in my co-founder Leigh Blake! I know the people we serve and that they get what they deserve. This movement gives me a more supreme purpose and it’s something I believe in. 

5. Alicia, what would you like to accomplish with the jewelry line?
I would like the WORLD to be effected by the pieces; for people to have an emotional connection with their pieces in such a way that it gives u something positive to hold on to (literally and figuratively!) 

6. The Barber’s shop seems to be an extension of what you both have been doing for a long time…. please explain?
Alicia “‘The Barber Shop’ is traditionally a place you can be yourself, find friends and emerge looking even better than when u came in… I feel the same about the barbers daughters pieces.”

Gisele “‘The Barber Shop’ is the greatest repository of stories. Stories define who we are. When we are willing to drop our story lines that hinder our growth, we can recreate the lives we want to live.”

7. Alicia, during this Christmas 2009… what would like to impart to the universe?
A sense of inspiration, hope, joy, faith and limitlessness.

8. Alicia, do you have a favorite piece?
My favorite piece is somewhere between the barbers daughters dog tags that say “the best way to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others,” that we created specifically for the Keep a Child Alive Black Ball fundraiser this year, and this large beautiful silver cuff that says “I am A superwoman!”

www.thebarbersdaughters.com
www.keepachildalive.org

Alicia Keys and designer Gisele Theriault

To my surprise this year I received an email from Glamour magazine Editor in Chief Cindi Leive asking me to present an award to Rihanna. I say surprised because I had never met Rihanna and was even more surprised that Rihanna requested me. Of course, I know and admire this young beautiful girl for her music and fearless fashion.

When she cut her hair she really turned into a real star… a Grammy winner who sold millions of albums and has become the fashion darling of the fashion world. But, I and the entire nation, were mesmerized how graceful, fearless, articulate and emotional she was talking about her abuse with Dianne Sawyer: “The thing that men don’t realize is that when they hit a woman, it is the face, the broken arm, the black eye…. That’s going to heal. That’s not the problem…. it’s the scar inside.”

She is an individual who is using her voice with her Believe Foundation, a fund that provides educational and medical supplies to needy children. She was as sweet as she can be and told me that for her it was a no brainer when she asked for me, and even told me “I hope I grow up to be just like you!” awwww…. I forget she is only 21 years old.

She looked fierce as always with the tightest longest dress… cute and sexy at the same time – and loved my dress…. so, Jason Wu, you will be hearing from Rihanna very soon.

She brought her entire family from Barbados which was lovely to see… I see where she gets her beauty… her mom!

The event was amazing and I think Maya Angelou almost stole the entire show with 2 standing ovations! She is smart, sassy and a phenomenal woman at the tender age of 80!

Serena Williams looked strong and sexy at the same time… Susan Rice powerful and feminine, Amy Poehler hysterically funny but graceful, and Stella McCartney wore the shortest of dresses I have ever seen but with the most amazing legs…. if I had those legs I would walk around with the skimpiest of dresses as well but … alas, I don’t!

I wore a Jason Wu cute light as a feather of a dress…. it was actually feathers! Beautiful soft color and the most amazing emerald ring by Lorraine Schwartz! My makeup was flawless and I was glowing all courtesy of Sam Fine – girls, get your DVDs, The Basics of Beauty by Sam Fine, to master this glow and buy yourself IMAN Afterglow, the yummiest of bronzers! … at www.drugstore.com.

Iman, in a Jason Wu dress and Lorraine Schwartz jewelry, with Rihanna at Glamour's 2009 Women of the Year Awards.

How did you start in the business?
I moved to New York at the tender age of 17 with hopes of becoming a fashion illustrator. During that time, I began working for a small cosmetic company, Naomi Sims Cosmetics. Within three months, I fell on my tail and returned to Chicago, until one day they called and asked if I was interested in returning to the Big Apple to work at their first cosmetic counter in Manhattan… and of course I jumped at the chance. It wasn’t long before I fell in love with the art of makeup and began assisting makeup pro, Fran Cooper. As fate would have it, Fran wasn’t available for a booking with Naomi Campbell for People’s 50 Most Beautiful People, so Naomi called personally and asked if I would work with her… the rest is history!

Your dvd, The Basics of Beauty, is beyond…. why did you decide to do one?
Having authored, Fine Beauty: Beauty Basics and Beyond for African – American Women, I realized that writing about beauty was great, but nothing could compare to watching it being applied! So, I decided to create my first makeup instructional DVD, Fine: The Basics of Beauty.

You have a profound knowledge of makeup. Will women be able to learn how to apply makeup like a pro from your DVD?
Fine: The Basics of Beauty DVD is the ultimate tool in which to learn proper application and product selection! However, you don’t become a “pro” overnight… it takes practice!

In addition to performing three makeovers, I offer an insightful tool review, include pop – up information and provide bonus footage following each makeover… and then, there’s the Special Features with behind-the-scene footage of you and I working together on a photoshoot to further demonstrate how the basics of beauty work on, well, everyone.

What are your all time favorite products?
Wow! Here goes… 

- Iman Luxury Pressed Powders – Your pressed powders have the perfect level of coverage and include a variety of shades that work for all women of color! And I absolutely LOVE your bronzer/blush AFTERGLOW… it provides subtle, shimmering color and a lot of gorgeous glow!!!

- Maybelline Expert Eyes Twin Brow and Eye Pencil – These two-for- one pencils are affordable and come in a great shade range and aren’t too waxy.

- L’Oreal Voluminous Waterproof Volume Building Mascara – mascara should have two things – a great brush and formula – This mascara has both! The brush is full and dense so it catches the finest of hairs… and the formula is rich enough to build thick, “voluminous” eyelashes.

- Iman, Black Opal, and Bobbi Brown Stick Foundations – I love stick foundations because they offer a variety of coverage options, making it easy for any women to achieve her desired level of coverage.

You love nude lips …. what are the best nudes out there for women of color?
Finding the right nude lipstick is like searching for the perfect color of nude pantyhose – It changes depending on your shade! And it’s not just about color, it’s also about consistency, so I prefer lipstick from Iman, Dolce & Gabbana, MAC and Nars.

No one does eyebrows like you, Sam, will I be able to learn this from your dvd?
Aw, thanks… Each “real” woman featured in Fine: The Basics of Beauty possesses a different brow shape, which allows the viewer to see how to trim, tweeze and enhance her brow – no matter the shape or size. The editors tried to get me to condense some of the eyebrow demonstration, but realized that it was such a special part of the DVD that they couldn’t cut out one step!

In terms of makeup what would you splurge on and what would you save on?
I always splurge on products that I feel are important to have in my kit. Whether it’s a loose powder by YSL or a lipgloss by Christian Dior. However, I’m so lucky to “steal” products from Iman Cosmetics, Black Opal and Queen Latifah’s Covergirl Collection because I would pay “splurge” prices for any item from these brands!

You are the only makeup artist i know who likes to do makeup in the darkest of rooms….. Why?
LOL! It’s not the darkest room… I simply like to have a single source of light, which usually makes it a more “dimly lit” room. With a single light source, I’m able to see the natural contours of the face, which helps me to apply makeup that looks more like the clients natural features.

What advice would you give to aspiring make up artists?
Practice, Practice, Practice!!! In an era of retouching, I don’t think today’s artists realize the level of detail that goes into making up each face. The job of a makeup artist is to give the retoucher something to follow; they’re job is to add the finishing touches to our work, not do our job for us!

When we are at a shoot you have so much input in how the hair should look and also about the styling and lighting…. have you ever considered doing a beauty book where you do the makeup, styling it and take the photos like Francois Nars?
No! I love collaborating with a great team. I truly enjoy being surrounded by other talented professionals that bring something new and different to the table.

Iman and make-up artist Sam Fine attend the launch party for Sam Fine's "The Basics of Beauty" DVD.

The Basics of Beauty DVD by Sam Fine at amazon.com

The Fashion Group International is the pre-eminent authority on the business of fashion and design and this year’s Star Honorees not only included my dear Michael Kors but also Frida Gianini of Gucci, Milliner Stephen Jones and Victoire de Castellane  of Dior Fine Jewelry.

The event was held at Cipriani Wall Street and packed with celebrities from Gwen Stefani, Eva Mendes, Jon Bon Jovi, Michael Stipes, Mary J. Blige, Evan Rachel Wood, Emmy Rossum  and James Franco and fashion’s biggest talents from Michael Kors (of course!), Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Tommy Hilfigher  and Kenneth Cole.  

When I was just about to get up to present the award to Michael, I realized that I hadn’t  printed my speech in a bigger font….you see I need reading glasses so usually when there are no teleprompters I print my speech in humongous letters, but I didn’t check tonight as my assistant print it out for me!

I realized there is no way I could read this so I started asking around the tables for a pair of reading glasses.  After several tries and nothing, thankfully, a gentleman gave me his glasses that were a perfect match and I thought, “now I have to work the glasses in the speech!”  So I did…. and guess what?  WWD wrote:

“Iman could have easily picked up “crowd favorite” for her speech introducing fashion award winner Michael Kors.  She said ‘Thank you, Vera Wang, Tommy Hilfigher, Oscar de la Renta, and all the other designers who told me that I look more beautiful and younger than ever.  But ladies, don’t fret – getting older is a b–ch!’”

That is when I put the reading glasses on!  It pays sometimes to think fast on your feet and make mistakes or misfortunes work for you.

I said in my speech this (among other things,) “For 28 years, Michael was consistently stood for a relaxed kind of luxury which is the hallmark of American Style. His sporty glamour has traveled the fashion globe from Bond Street in London, to the Via Sant Andrea in Milan, to seven years at the helm of Celine in Paris. He has seen his American point of view become an increasingly international point of view. Watching his shows is like a 13 min escape from everyday life. He takes us away from Aspen to Gstad to Capri and Palm Beach and back to urban Manhattan.”

Congrats, Michael! Mwah!

Iman in custom made Michael Kors gown and Fred Leighton jewelry